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This collection of art deco-inspired necklaces and ear studs owes its existence to a creative change of direction.
I initially wanted to create a pendant. On a round silver blank, I had etched a sunray pattern. The idea was to surround this ‘sunray disk’ with a circular frame made from square wire, and to secure it with four jump rings. But after I had drilled the holes for the jump rings and fastened the disk to the frame, I didn’t love the result.
I still liked the etched sun rays, though, and the more I looked at the disk, the more I was reminded of the kind of fan-shaped pattern that was so typical for the Art Deco style of the early 20th century, here shown in a few examples from architecture and a theatre costume by Leon Bakst, created for Sergei Diaghilev’s famous dance company, the Ballets Russes.
I got four of those elements from the original disk. Adding a round cabochon in a bezel setting seemed like the natural next step … To replace the etched pattern, which is a technique I don’t use in my workshop, I decided on a rounder, more palmette-like shape made from silver clay, courtesy to a pattern sheet by Joanne Tinley / The Jeweller’s Bench.
For the cabochons, I chose intensely coloured gemstone such as lapis lazuli, carnelian and tiger’s eye to evoke original Art Deco jewellery, which was colourful and bold, using materials such as onyx, lapis lazuli, jade, coral and enamels.
But I also included a delicate rose quartz version as well as the sparkly, man-made blue goldstone and beautiful, blue and green iridescent pāua shells to add some more nuances. The pāua shells I loved so much that I also created a small number of unique necklaces with them.
The gemstones
Gemstones have been used for thousands of years, and I have always been fascinated by their history, beauty and the different meanings and powers attributed to them. So here are the stones used in this collection in some more detail:
Lapis lazuli
Lapis lazuli is a beautiful, intensely blue metamorphic rock that has been used for making jewellery as far back as the Neolithic and has been found in the archaeological remains of many cultures, including in Iraq, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Egypt.
Blue goldstone
Blue goldstone is a beautiful, sparkly, human-made semi-precious stone. It’s essentially glass with silvery flecks of cobalt that make it look like a starry night sky. Its origins are not confirmed. The most likely and accepted version is that it was invented in the 17th century by the Miottis, a family of Venetian glass makers.
Rose quartz
The pale pink, translucent rose quartz is associated with harmony, forgiveness and loving relationships with self and others.
Carnelian
The vibrant orange or reddish carnelian gets his name from the Latin word for flesh.
Called the 'sunset stone' in ancient Egypt, it has been associated with creativity, passion and female energy.
Tiger's eye
The luscious, golden and caramel-coloured tiger's eye is said to have protective and strengthening powers.
Roman soldiers carried it for bravery in battle.
Pāua shell
Pāua shell, also known as the 'Sea Opal', is only found in New Zealand.
Pāua is a Māori name for three species of large sea snails, which are also known as abalone or ormer shells. Pāua are often used in traditional and contemporary Māori arts and crafts.
All variations are available in my Etsy shop, Ampersand Design by HB.
Photos:
Chrysler Buidling: Photo by Jonathan Pease on Unsplash
Ballet Russes costume: Carnaval (Schumann) by L.Bakst 1910. File in public domain
Architecture details: Canva
All jewellery photos: (c) Ampersand Design by HB
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